Occupied with Sockupied

All photos (c) Sockupied/Harper Point

When Amy Palmer, Editor of Knitscene and Sockupied, put out a call for people to review the latest issue of Sockupied (Spring 2015), I jumped at the chance. Here was a e-magazine I'd tried out when it debuted in Summer 2010, but hadn't really paid much attention to since. Partly because of the eMag format which I found unwieldy and partly because I have a backlog of sock patterns queued up already.

I was eager to see how things had evolved over the last 5 years.

I remember being amazed when Sockupied debuted 5 years ago. Here was the perfect magazine for me: all about socks; even then I was an avid sock knitter. Conventional knitting magazines, which were great learning resources as I moved from beginner to intermediate knitter, just didn't seem to have enough content geared specifically toward my main love: socks.

Laith Socks, Rachel Coopey

Spoiler Alert!

For those of you with limited time, I'll cut to the chase. I love the new Sockupied format of being PDF only. It saves space on your computer. It's easier to download and start using. The content is very focused. The patterns and photography are beautiful. If Sockupied had been offered in PDF format from the start, I would own more issues of it. I'll definitely be paying more attention to Sockupied from now on.

The Details

Sockupied 2015 is the first time the magazine has been released in PDF only format. I love this new format. It's straight forward. You can email a copy of the PDF to yourself to access on other devices (and as an easy backup method). And it takes up very little disk space on your computer: 3.75 MB. Download the PDF and you're ready to check out the delicious patterns. There's 1 file with all the pattern information you need.

Previously you had to download and install the file onto your hard drive. It's not an onerous task, but it does take up disk space (546MB for one issue I downloaded for the .exe, plus more for the installed magazine).

The eMag format was both interesting and frustrating. Because of my day job, I'm very much at home on a computer. I spend my working hours, along with many leisure hours, glued to a laptop. So it was fun to have something interactive to click through. But from a usability perspective, I didn't always know where to click. Or how to get the pattern for the sock I wanted to knit from the pattern, including how to find it again after I've closed it.

The Magazine

Mill End Sock, MK Nance

One of the first things that struck me, aside from the beautiful photography, was the cozy and 'real' feel of the magazine. This isn't a magazine where the designs might have artistic merit but are clearly not intended for everyday, real wear. I can see myself knitting and wearing every one of these designs. The techniques described sound completely do-able, the finished products cover a range of skill levels, and the yarns used are accessible, affordable and easy to swap out for something in your own stash or LYS.

I love that the table of contents clearly states whether the pattern is toe up or top down - one of the first questions I have about a pattern. Plus, there's a short description of the key highlights of the pattern. This tells us that in  MK Nance's Mill End Sock pattern "Swirling stitches cover the legs" and cable lovers might like Kate Atherley's Washington State Knee socks in which "Simple small cables are worked in a sport weight yarn." This makes it easy to pick out what's unique in each pattern.

Washington State Knee Socks, Kate Atherley

Sockupied's design aesthetic has really streamlined itself too, for the better in my opinion. Sure, it was fun to have lots of things to click in the interactive eMag, but that didn't necessarily improve the content or the reading experience.


Now, the magazine has a laser focus on what it does best - presenting beautiful sock patterns in a beautiful and consumable way. There are 5 patterns, a featured designer interview and an article on how to customize your knee-high socks - the perfect how-to article to answer questions that might be raised by readers when they explore Kate Atherley's knee-high sock pattern.

Another I noticed with much appreciation, is that there are no advertisements in Sockupied. I understand that advertising usually pays for magazine production costs, not subscriptions. But I like this streamlined approach. Sockupied is offering readers what we want: beautiful sock patterns at an affordable and fair price.

The Spring 2015 PDF is $11.99 on the Interweave site. You can also explore the patterns on Ravelry. That's a meager $2.40 per pattern - cheaper than any professional pattern I've seen. Plus, Kate's article on customizing socks is invaluable. Truly, any sock knitter should have the know-how to make their socks custom fit their own foot and leg shape. Factor that great advice into the purchase price and it's a steal at $2/pattern and article.

The featured designer article is a fun little feature too. Although it's just a page long, it's a fun way to learn a bit more about the designer as a person, her key design elements, and offers some handy sock knitting tips. In fact, I'm looking forward to trying out her Kitchener stitch tip on my next pair of socks!

The Patterns

Karner Butterfly Socks, Jennifer Raymond

I won't spend too much time on the details of each pattern. You can check those out for yourself on Ravelry. But what does deserve mention is that editor Amy Palmer has chosen a nice balance of techniques and skill levels. There's something for toe up vs. top down knitters. There's different heel turn techniques. There's something for the adventurous (Karner Butterfly socks, by Jennifer Raymond), which have you knit the leg of the sock around and then pick up stitches for the foot. And they don't shy away from the fact that, hey knee-high socks are a lot of knitting, so here some using sport weight yarn! It's quicker!

Chain Socks, Mone Dräger 

The One Sock Two Ways feature is another nice touch. I personally prefer knitting with solid or semi-solid sock yarn. But we've all been seduced by that colorway which looks great curled up in the skein but when knit up turns into a muddle of colors. One Sock Two Ways shows you how the pattern looks knit up in both a semi-solid and a variegated/hand painted yarn. And Chains Socks

by Mone Dräger looks like a great pattern to use that hand painted skein we all have but don't know what to do with.

Another great thing about the patterns is that they offer multiple sizes. Rachel Coopey's socks come in only 2 sizes. But the rest of the patterns offer from 3 to 6 (6!) sizes to choose from. The instructions are concise and clear. 

My only 'issue' (in quotes because it's more of a personal preference) is that due to the format, the instructions tend to run together in longer paragraphs. I like a bit more white space and visual separation between my instructions. Here's an example of what I mean.

Gusset

Next rnd Sl 1 pwise wyb, k19 (21), pick up and knit

16 sts along side of heel flap, work 32 (36) instep sts

as foll: k1, [p2, k2] 1 (2) time(s), p2, work Chart E over

24 sts, k1, pm, pick up and knit 16 sts along side of

heel flap, k36 (38)—84 (90) sts: 32 (36) instep sts, 52

(54) sole sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Dec rnd Work in

patt to m, sl m, ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sole sts

dec’d. Next rnd Work even. Rep last 2 rnds 9 (8) more

times—64 (72) sts rem: 32 (36) sts each for instep and

sole.

If I were writing up the pattern (or even just following along), I'd prefer to see it like this:

Gusset
Next rnd Sl 1 pwise wyb, k19 (21), pick up and knit 16 sts along side of heel flap, work 32 (36) instep sts as foll:

Rnd 1: k1, [p2, k2] 1 (2) time(s), p2, work Chart E over 24 sts, k1, pm, pick up and knit 16 sts along side of heel flap, k36 (38)—84 (90) sts: 32 (36) instep sts, 52 (54) sole sts. Pm and join in the rnd.
Dec rnd:  Work in patt to m, sl m, ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sole sts dec’d.
Next rnd Work even.

Rep last 2 rnds 9 (8) more times—64 (72) sts rem: 32 (36) sts each for instep and sole.

That white space and use of new lines for new rounds add visual cues that help me separate out chunks of information. But, I understand that this is a personal preference and that different magazines have different layout and style requirements. But since this is a PDF, I can easily highlight text using the PDF tools to help me focus on the steps, line by line.

Full disclosure: I was given a review copy of the Sockupied Spring 2015 PDF, but otherwise received no compensation. Amy Palmer, Editor of Sockupied was clear that what I said about it was up to me. She encouraged honest feedback, both good and bad. And frankly, I was going into the review with the opinion that Sockupied had disappointed me after its debut in 2010. But I really like what Amy & team have done and the direction they're taking with the PDF. By focusing on the content and not the bells and whistles of how it's delivered, I think they've really come up with a winner.

New Release: Roger Ackroyd socks

 Roger Ackroyd is now available!

Classic cables wind down the leg, reminiscent of warm, cozy sweaters worn on walks over the moors or out on the fishing boat. At the ankle, the main cables switch to ribbing while the 1/2 side cables continue down either side of the foot, and add detail to the toe.

When planning this pattern, I decided to place the cables only on the leg for two reasons: 1) the foot cables would be hidden by shoes and 2) I feared that the cables would make the socks too thick to fit inside shoes comfortably. While this might be an issue with plump, rounder yarns, test knitters who continued the cables all the way down the foot found this not to be the case.

I love that the test knitters had fun with this pattern, customizing it to suit their preferences. Several knitters continued the cables down the foot (just keep following the chart!), which looks fantastic. Others used a plain stocking stitch toe instead of the rib and cables. Some preferred simple 1/1 side cables instead of the 1/2 cables, turning that extra stitch into a purl.

This captures the essence of what I hope to achieve with my patterns. I provide the base and make it easy for less experienced knitters to create a great looking sock. At the same time, more experienced sock knitters can easily make those tweaks to suit their feet and knitting preferences.

E-book Details:

This pattern is part of an e-book series, The Agatha Christie Series, Volume 2 (The Poirot Collection). Follow along as I create designs inspired by Agatha Christie novels featuring Hercule Poirot.

This e-book represents a savings over purchasing the patterns separately. And the earlier you buy, the more you save. Six patterns will be delivered approximately every 6 weeks, with all patterns being delivered by the end of July 2014. Your Ravelry library will automatically be updated with the new patterns.

Buy in March & April 2014: $19
Buy in May & June 2014: $23

A Study in Socks - Progress

The other day I wore one of the earlier socks I've knit. I can't recall exactly when I knit them, but it was early in my sock career. When I comb through the hand knits in my sock drawer, it's like an archeological survey of my education as a sock knitter.

The early layers, the furthest back in the drawer, rarely see the light of day. These socks don't fit. They're either too tight or don't fit correctly. When I was learning, I followed the instructions meticulously, but with a tension so tight you could bounce quarters off it. I was trying to prevent that pesky laddering problem between needles, and to create a fabric as tight and smooth as commercial made socks. The socks I wore this week were of this vintage, albeit later in the era. They fit around my leg and foot, but the toes and heels were off. The toe on one sock kept sticking out and didn't conform to my foot properly.

One other characteristic of this early foray into socks is the hit and miss quality of the yarn I used. I was experimenting and usually buying cheaper yarns. I hadn't discovered a blend that felt good on my feet.

The middle layers of sockitude begin to get more varied. As I gained experience I learned what size my foot was and how to adjust the toe and heel shaping for my foot instead of the pattern's ideal foot. The yarn became more varied. I tried self-striping yarns and bought the pricier commercial yarns. I was seduced by variegated yarns that look great in the skein but disappointed me when knit up. I also had a bit of a fling with Handmaiden Casbah sock yarn. This more adventurous era provided more learning opportunities in matching fiber blends with patterns, as well as lessons in gauge.

I learned which yarns felted if you looked at them in an agitated manner (I'm looking at you, alpaca blend). I learned that some yarns bloom when washed - and that this, combined with a lacey pattern means that your socks will grow a size or two. This is also when I experimented with a few different techniques: toe up, magic loop, two at a time (TAAT). I learned to relax my tension and tighten up the second stitch after changing needles, not the first, to reduce laddering. In addition - I learned cast on methods to ensure that the cuff of the sock wasn't too tight for my leg. In other words - I learned to step outside the strict instructions of the pattern to make socks that fit me. This may have also been the start of my enormous sock stash growth.

The outer layer of socks, the ones I reach for most frequently have all been made in the past two years. They fit perfectly. They are made of the "good" yarn in my stash: the indie dyers, Wollmeise, and Cascade Heritage. I realized that these yarns shouldn't sit unused in my stash. If I was going to spend 30 hours (or more) knitting a pair of socks, it should be with the good stuff. I began designing socks as an incentive to reduce my stash (hah!), so most of these socks are of my own creation. I even learned to enjoy knitting socks toe up! And there are a lot of socks missing from this layer - the socks I designed, knit and gave away to family and friends.

Perhaps it's just that time of year for reflection, but there's a lot to be said for looking back to see where you started and just how far you've come. We tend to focus on what we can't do (yet), but it's worth taking a moment (or three) to look at your accomplishments too. Well done, you!

Toe up socks for everyone!

Back in September I announced that I’ll be attempting to make my sock patterns available in toe up versions as well as cuff down.

I’m pleased to share that the first two of my toe-up conversions are now available.

The Man in the Brown Suit was easy to convert. The chart can be worked from the top or bottom. It was ‘just’ the toe, heel and cuff instructions which needed to be modified.

I picked Styles Court as the next pattern to convert for two reasons. It is one of my most popular patterns (after appearing on the Yarn Harlot’s blog), and I was working with a technical editor to fix the errors in the cuff down version. So it seemed to make sense to convert it into a toe-up pattern at the same time.

Styles Court required a bit more back & forth with the tech editor. Due to basic differences in heel construction, we decided to scrap the small amount of detailing in the heel. We had a choice between complicated instructions to create the exact same look on the heel, or simple instructions for an unpatterned heel. I opted for simplicity since the impact to the overall design of the sock is minimal.

If you have purchased the cuff down version of the pattern you should receive an update notice and your Ravelry library should be automatically updated. Updates will also be available on Craftsy and Patternfish.

Happy Knitting!

Tickled pink!

I get a thrill from hearing from people who have knit, or are knitting, my patterns. I've 'met' some really nice people that way.

I heard from someone who had been really nervous about trying toe-up socks for the first time. They tried my Swirl socks and after a few challenges, typical of learning any new skill, loved the process and was thrilled to have learned something new.

Someone else learned a new, simpler heel.

Many others have commented on the Agatha Christie series, about how much they enjoy the novels. I love connecting with other people over a love of reading. Audiobooks have allowed me to combine my love of reading with my knitting, so I don't have to choose between the two.

Today, I was tickled pink to get a message from someone on Ravelry. She'd seen my pattern The Vicar's Wife, named for the characters in the first Miss Marple novel, The Murder at the Vicarage. She is a vicar's wife, a sock knitter, an Agatha Christie fan, and lives in a town in England which has a strong link to Agatha Christie.

How serendipitous is that?

Tips and Techniques: I couldn't have said it better myself

On days when I ponder what to blog about next, I think "Add value!", "Demonstrate techniques!" - all stuff I see well-known knitters doing. It's the logical thing to do from a business perspective. You need to keep providing content that keeps people coming back to your site, because presumably that's how you sell them things. Or something.

But then I look at all the content that's already out there, at one's Google fingertips. And I think - what can I really say about knitting that hasn't already been said in many ways, in many places - and said very well already. Why add to the "noise"?

I'm a trained technical writer. As part of my training I learned a few guiding principles of writing that I apply to all my writing (and life in general, sometimes). The one I always come back to is this:

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
Just because you can write something in a fancy or cool looking, blinky font - doesn't mean you should. Just because you can add neat effects to a photo in Photoshop, doesn't mean you should. You need to think about what is going to be visually appealing, clear, and understandable for your audience. You don't need to distract them with cool things just because you can.

So, just because I can talk about knitting techniques, I keep telling myself I shouldn't re-invent the wheel when others have made such darn awesome wheels.

Like Tin Can Knits. They've put together The Simple Collection - a series of free, simple patterns designed to highlight basic knitting techniques. Each pattern is gorgeous, yet easy enough for beginners. And TCK provides wonderful tutorials for the techniques used in each pattern.

Today, their Rye Sock pattern is featured on their blog, along with the perfect step-by-step explanations of sock anatomy, techniques and tips for knitters new to socks. Their photos are beautiful. Their sock schematics are clear and easy to understand. And they make it easy for people to learn to knit not just socks - but anything.

So, if you're looking for the perfect entry-level sock pattern go check out Tin Can Knits' Rye Socks here.

As for me, I'll be over in my corner trying to reconcile myself to the fact that while I enjoy designing, want to be successful at at, and know that I should be emulating successful designers - my personal style is different. I want to share my love of knitting (socks), I want to share the great resources which have helped me over the years, and I want to create designs that are fun, beautiful and enjoyable to knit.

But I don't need to present myself as an expert with new & definitive things to say. I'm pretty sure wiser people than I have already said it and said it well. I think my personal style is more of an aggregator and sharer of useful information. And coincidentally, this is what I've always done in my professional life in the tech industry. I've always said, "I may not know the answers, but I know how to find the people who have the answers and connect you with them."

So go connect with Tin Can Knits' Simple Collection - they've said everything beautifully.

Yarn + Saturday Morning Cartoons

When I was a kid Saturday morning were the time to watch cartoons. There was no Cartoon channel, no Netflix and no VCRs (never mind DVRs!). If you didn't tune in in time, you missed your show.

Well, now I have a chance to combine childhood memories with my current favorite way to relax on the weekend. I'm so excited to have been asked to participate in the Tripping Yarn Balls Yarn Club which is featuring a Retro Cartoons theme for this year!

The Tripping Yarn Balls yarn club is a collaboration between Play at Life, Please Stand By Yarns, and Shameless Twist. Each of these dyers create gorgeous yarns. Play at Life creates the stunning Maki yarns which are dyed in gradients. Her club yarns will be dyed to complement her Maki gradients. Please Stand By Yarns, who is a fellow Canadian, specializes in self-striping yarns which, when knit from both ends of the skein, result in matching socks. And Shameless Twist is a color genius who will be working with a new luscious super wash merino/cashmere/nylon base for the club yarns. Sign up are open on the TYB site.

So where do I come in? I'll be designing two exclusive sock patterns for club members. Club membership come in 6 or 12 month signups, so during each 6 month time frame members will receive one free sock pattern designed to complement the club yarn.

I'm completely psyched up to revisit the cartoons of my childhoood and see them represented in yarn.  I loved the Pink Panther, the Wonder Twins, Aquaman, Pinky and the Brain (Snarf!). What were your favorites to watch as a kid?

Toe up or Cuff down?

How do you like your socks? Knit from the cuff down or from the toe up?

Personally, I'm most comfortable with cuff down. I've memorized the heel flap and heel turn instructions and can knit happily along without instructions. For some reason, toe up has never 'clicked' for me.

But I know there's a lot of people who love the toe up method. It's the perfect way to get the absolute most out of your yarn. You can divide your skein of sock yarn into two and then just knit each sock until the yarn runs out.

So, I'm embarking on a quest to deliver toe up versions of my designs - at least the ones which have stitch patterns which can be easily converted to toe up, which is most of them.

As each toe up design is ready (after testing and editing), I'll be updating the existing pattern listing in Ravelry, Patternfish and Craftsy. The toe up version will be a separate PDF. Anyone who has purchased a cuff down copy of a pattern will automatically receive the toe up update!

And going forward, I'll try to have toe up versions of designs available at the same time as the cuff down versions.

So cuff down or toe up, I'll have your sock needs covered.

Pucker up, Winners!

Thanks everyone for leaving your comments and tips in the Fish Lips Kiss Heel post. I'll send the pattern to you right away!

Picture someone puckering out their lips
ready to give you a kiss. Well, this heel,
when off the foot, looks a wee little bit like that.
Photo courtesy & (c) Geri Inglis

Our winners are....
LakeviewChica (Ravelry ID)
marmelineravel (Ravelry ID)
Nhsarab (Ravelry ID)
su3385 (Ravelry ID)
QueenDBW - please contact me
 for your prize (maureenfouldsdesigns AT gmail DOT com)

Bonus round:
DKA (Ravelry ID)
knithemiptera  (Ravelry ID)
calendarfish (Ravelry ID)
Woolytanis (Ravelry ID)

Long weekend excitement & The Man in the Brown Suit

I hope everyone enjoyed a long weekend (if you live in a place where it was a long weekend). At our house we kicked the weekend off a bit early as I headed out to the cottage to spend some time with my Mom and my daughter. My daughter loves having the freedom to roam around at the cottage and there are always lots of other kids around for her to play with.

We avoided the holiday traffic by heading home on Sunday morning, which also gave us time to prepare for "Back to School". Laundry was done, a first day of school outfit was selected and her backpack prepared. We're ready for grade 3!

On Monday, our long weekend was enlivened by a trip to the ER (A&E if you're in the UK). My daughter and her friends decided to try a cheer leading routine which involved lifting her up in the air. Except they've never done it or trained for it. Predictably, my daughter tumbled down and hurt her arm. Badly. When the pain didn't abate after 30 minutes, we drove over to the ER for x-rays, just to be on the safe side. We were seen remarkably quickly and received the good news that there's no fracture. Just a lot of pain. Another childhood lesson learned - and a few grey hairs added to my head.
 
New Pattern
In knitting news, I've just published my latest sock pattern: The Man in the Brown Suit.

The Man in the Brown Suit - moss ribbing and cables

Inspired by the novel The Man in the Brown Suit, by Agatha Christie, these socks offer classic moss stitch ribbing with a dash of cabled elegance. Suitable for a man or a woman, these socks provide an uncomplicated knit, with just enough variety to keep your interest.

The Man in the Brown Suit, at least in the novel, is mysterious, adventurous, independent, strong and loyal. We should all have a Man in a Brown Suit in our lives. Even if we have to knit it ourselves.

The pattern instructions are provided for four sizes, small, medium, large and extra-large (58, 64, 72 and 80 sts).

The Agatha Christie Series, Volume 1
The Man in the Brown Suit is also part of an e-book offering on Ravelry. Follow along as I create designs inspired by Agatha Christie novels.

There are currently 3 patterns included in this e-book: 2 sock patterns and 1 shawl pattern. Three more sock patterns will be added over the next 3 months. When you purchase the e-book you will automatically receive the new patterns when they are released and added to the e-book.

This e-book represents a significant savings over purchasing the patterns separately. And the earlier you buy, the more you save.

Styles Court sock

Buy in September 2013: $12
Buy in October 2013: $14
Buy in November 2013: $16
Buy in December 2013: $18

Styles Court socks - One of my most popular patterns, this pattern’s herringbone rib works for men and women.

The Man in the Brown Suit - Another unisex pattern, made up of moss stitch ribbing and cables on either side of the leg.

Joanna Lymstock Shawl - A crescent shaped shawl with a pretty lace border and a stocking stitch body.

Style Court - herringbone and cables

Joanna Lymstock shawl

E-book details will be updated as patterns become available. All patterns will be released by December 2013.

Tips & Techniques: Fish Lips Kiss Heel

A couple weeks ago I was checking out one of the sock forums on Ravelry. That's when I noticed a post by one of the members, Sox Therapist about something called a new sock technique called the Fish Lips Kiss heel, which she'd invented.

I was intrigued.  I'm always on the look out for new sock techniques. And the creator promised that this new heel eliminated gaps, results in a guaranteed fit and can be worked cuff down or toe up. The last part really caught my attention since I constantly stumble over finding a good toe-up heel.

I mentioned it to my knitting buddy Geri and within a few days she'd tried it out and blogged about it (here). (Spoiler: She loves it!) And she's not the only one. In just under a month, 112 sock projects have been recorded in Ravelry. The Sox Therapist group on Ravelry is filled with pictures of the heels along with rave reviews. The Sox Therapist is there to answer questions and share suggestions. She also has a couple Youtube videos demonstrating her short row method.

I have to admit, I haven't tried it myself - yet. But I was intrigued about the technique and wanted to find out more. So I contacted the Sox Therapist who kindly agreed to do an interview. I have to admit, her enthusiasm about socks is evident.

Picture someone puckering out their lips ready to give you a kiss
Well, this heel, when off the foot, looks a wee little bit like that.
Photo courtesy & (c) Geri Inglis

In fact, her enthusiasm is so contagious, that I've decided to do a giveaway (even though I just finished doing one). I'll give away 5 copies of the Fish Lips Kiss heel to winners chosen by a random number generator.

To enter:  Leave a comment (make sure I have some way of contacting you, either a Ravelry ID or your email - which isn't published). For a second contest entry, in your comment include your favorite sock tip or technique. Don't worry if someone's already mentioned yours. Comments don't have to be original. I just want to hear a helpful sock tip or technique.

Deadline: Contest closes Wed, Sept 4th, 2013. Winners announced Sept 5th, 2013.

So, here's what I asked the Sox Therapist and how she responded:

1. So what is the FLK heel?

The Fish Lips Kiss Heel is not just a heel -- it's a totally new method for making pretty socks that fit!  I devised a method for making and using cardboard sock templates with critical markings that allows you to knit perfectly-fitted socks easily and without math.  Then there is the heel design -- simple, yet innovative.  There are no wraps, gaps, or holes (anywhere!!).  Also no gussets or flaps, no counting, no math, no changes in number of stitches, (so absolutely no getting lost!), no knitting around the front of the sock before the heel is completed, no disruption of front-of-sock patterning to create the heel. Just a beautiful, easy heel that fits every time, no matter who you knit it for, even if you never once tried the sock on the actual foot while you were knitting it.  I knit socks for people who live across the country, and whose feet I have never even seen.  I mail them their socks, and when they pull them on, they fit!

2. What inspired you to come up with the FLK heel?

I am insatiably curious.  I am also a math and English major.  I love to teach. (Knitting, yes, but lots of other things, too.)  I learn things very easily, but I've noticed that not everyone has a strange brain like mine.  Lots of people hate math, for instance.  Lots of knitters who have tried to knit wrap-and-turn short-row heels have lost their place, couldn't see the gaps, and gotten into a whole mess of trouble with their stitch counts.  I see many published patterns where even the sock photographed in the pattern was loose under the foot and had "interesting" things happening above the heel.  I am a passionate toe-up knitter, but it was beyond irksome that it took too much effort every time I knit a sock to make things work.  If I knit socks for a different person, or with a different weight yarn, or with a different stitch count or different sized needles, it was near-impossible to figure out where to start the gusset, and things just got more complicated from there!

The Fish Lips Kiss Heel - Photo courtesy & (c) Sox Therapist

So one day a few years ago I just got sick of it all and threw up my hands.  After all, it occurred to me, people go to stores and buy socks all the day long, and they fit!  So why then, I asked myself, is there all this difficulty when sock knitters encounter a high instep or socks that bind at the ankle hinge?  I figured that if flap and gusset heels really did fit most people better, then industry would be using them. But nope, the industry doesn't!  Puzzled, I went to my sock drawer to seek out answers to these vexing questions.  I pulled out a store-bought white sock with a gray heel knit into it, and stared that thing down, oh yessiree, I did.  I even counted the teeny tiny rows and heel turn stitches to figure out exactly what was happening there.  

It was my light bulb moment.  It started my "I will solve this mystery!" process, and I haven't looked back.  The day I stared down that sock, I sat down with paper and pen, and first wrote out a list of everything I observed about the store-bought sock.  Next I made a (very long!) list of all the angsty things that annoyed me and others about hand-knitted socks.  For the past 2+ years I have worked my way through that list, determined not to publish my design until I had crossed off every single "ugh!" that made knitting socks sometimes not so much fun.  At one point I was almost there!  The heel was beautiful, the socks always fit and never had gaps or holes, etc., etc. But... the pattern/design wasn't simple to memorize.  My heart sunk, because "must be able to knit from memory without a pattern" was on my must-have list, and I just couldn't let that one go.  I literally chucked the design and started over, simply not willing to compromise on a single element of my ultimate sock method.  

The Fish Lips Kiss Heel eBook is the happy result.  There are lots of pages in the eBook, but it's a fun, easy read.  And believe me -- once you've knit a pair, you will toss the whole thing aside and not need to pick it up again!

3. How is the FLK heel method different from other sock heels?

Simple answer:  It's blindingly easy to knit, and it fits!  You can choose any pattern you like, and plunk this method/heel into it.  The sock will look beautiful and will fit the recipient, cuff-down or toe-up.  I encourage knitters to click on the pattern page to learn more, but briefly, I use an unusual short-row stitch, an innovative heel construction, and a foot template to get a perfect fit.  The eBook comes complete with high-quality photos that more easily show what stitch is what, (different-color yarns so you can see what is happening, there).  But even simpler, you can just use my videos and knit along with me as you learn to knit the new short-row stitches.  I also created a math algorithm that enabled me to devise a simple formula for drawing guideline markings on your foot templates, (plural, because you're going to now be knitting well-fitted socks for everyone you know!).  Knitters don't have to figure out anything complicated, because I have done that for you.  Just measure where I tell you, drop the numbers into the formula, and presto!

My new heel method and foot template, when combined, are quite unique.  And yet you end up with a beautiful heel that just plain looks like a simple store-bought sock that fits properly.  You might think you've seen this "pattern" before, but I would assert that all together, you haven't seen this until you've seen it.  And for only a dollar, that's a happy surprise.

4. Does it work every time?

Yes, every time.  I have knit over a hundred pairs for many dozens of different people.  I taught the method in retreat classes and my students had the same experience.  There is an ever-growing number of Ravelry projects with surprised and happy knitters who now have a way to knit socks that fit, when many previous patterns and attempts were unsuccessful, or spotty at best.  The pattern is currently rated 5.0 of 5 stars because, knitters say, "It's easy, it fits, and it's pretty!"

Photo courtesy & (c) Geri Inglis

5. Why not make it available for free?

My personal experience on Ravelry has been thus:  Click on a cool pattern and see that it is free. Yippee!!! Click on a cool pattern to discover that it is $6, (or much more).  Heart sinks.  Knit cool free pattern and wish that there was some easy way I could thank the designer monetarily, but within my budget, (and not look cheap or ungrateful).  I decided to charge a dollar, which is far less than the average pattern price because, to be perfectly honest, it was important to my husband that he not "lose me" to my passion without at least minimal compensation.  Now when he sees me knitting with a notebook next to me, or responding to Ravelry forums and private messages, he says, "Oh -- I see you are working!"  It seems to be a Y chromosome thing for husbands to want others to value their wives' time as much as they do.  I don't need the money, but FLK knitters are so excited to be able to afford the pattern and also are thrilled at how much they are getting for that dollar.  I won't get rich charging a dollar for my patterns, but if it was free, I wouldn't enjoy designing and supporting patterns as much as I do.

6. Any other innovations up your sleeve?

Oh , yeah!  Knitters can follow me on my www.Ravelry.com group, Sox Therapy, where I will announce upcoming and new release patterns, as well as share in KALs, Q&A, finished project pictures, etc.

7. Tell us a bit more about yourself.

I have been happily married to my wonderful husband for almost 30 years, and we have four great kids, two of them married, and one grandson (so far!).  I come from a very long line of innovative knitters and crocheters, and all of our kids, (even our son), know how to knit.  I own my great grandmother's historic spinning wheel.  She invented and patented the process of turning milk casein into fiber, and would spin it, weave it into cloth, and then sew fine men's tailored suits with the resultant cloth.  She took that wheel and traveled around the country to state fairs demonstrating her methods at a time in history when women just didn't do such things, (get patents and travel without their farming husbands).  I have articles about her, and a treasured photo of her on the Vermont family homestead porch, spinning with that wheel.

My grandmother and mother taught me many, many skills, and I started knitting,crocheting and sewing at age five. When I was a few years older, Grandma taught me to spin, first with my hands while she treadled  and then we traded.  When I had each separate skill mastered, (relatively speaking -- I was very young!), she set me to spinning on my own.  She also taught me to sew, quilt, do all manner of needlework, to garden and preserve food, and to cook.  She shared a voracious passion for reading with me as well, pointing me to many an interesting book.  She only had a 4th grade education, but was one of the most brilliant women I have ever known.  Her passion was civic and political activism, (again, at a time when women didn't do that sort of thing -- guess she learned that from her mother!).

Music and instruments were and are also a big part of my life, and I have passed that love and those skills to our four kids.  My husband is a "doer" as well, and the two of us have enjoyed sharing our passions with our kids as they've grown.  The kids have helped us roof our house and out-buildings, rebuild a 1929 Model A Ford, grow and harvest our orchard and gardens, raise chickens, and oooohhhh, how we love to make music together!  Hubby and I feel very blessed to have young adult kids who are close to each other and to us, and who enjoy being a part of each others' daily round.  Oh... And they're proud as punch of their Mama's new-found little bit of knitting glory.  Life is very, very good!

And the winner is....

Silver Linings, from Lola-Doodles

Wow! First of all, let me thank all of you who entered! What an overwhelming response to our giveaway. Thank you for taking a few minutes of your time to pick out a favorite colorway and post your comments, tweet or blog about the contest.

Now to the part we're all here for:  I used the random number generator over at random.org and it told me that the winner is.... tessercat! Tessercat has been notified and has chosen "Coffee with Amos" which will be popped in the mail and heading north just as quick as possible.

Dowager's Prize Roses, from Lola-Doodles

Silver Linings

Don't forget - only 3 more days until the Dowager's Prize Diamonds pattern is available for $2.50 at Lola-Doodles Etsy shop. Lola-Doodles will also have a limited quantity of the Dowager's Prize Roses and Silver Linings colorways available in 3 sock bases. Once those are gone, you'll be able to custom order any of her colorways.

Silver Linings

Dowager's Prize Roses

Dowager's Prize Roses

Dowager's Prize Diamonds - in pink

Photo (c) Chath

Chath has test knit for me several times. She's a talented and knowledgeable knitter who has shared some of that knowledge with me over the past several months. I've also gotten to know her better and she's a wonderful lady.

She also knit a fantastic pair of  Dowager's Prize Diamonds (Ravelry project link):

Photo (c) Chath

Chath used Praefatio Yarns MCN fingering (available on Etsy) in Rhododendron for her size medium sock. The medium size, which isn't officially documented, is knit by casting on 72 sts as for the large, but using a 2.25mm needle instead of a 2.5mm needle. The cables and twisted stitches also pull in the fabric a bit, giving it just enough grip to ensure a good fit. She ended up using approximately 184 yd per sock for a total 367 yards used for the pair.


The contest deadline is tonight! If you haven't entered the Dowager's Prize Diamonds contest yet, check out this post to find out how to enter.

Sneak Peek

I'm in the final stages of prepping my newest sock pattern for release. I just need a few good photos, which are always dependent on the weather and time, and those two things coinciding.

These new socks are definitely on the piquant to extra spicy side (using Knitty's scale of difficulty). There are cables everywhere. The cables themselves are fairly simple once you get used to them. If you use pointy needles you should be able to zip through them after some practice.

I'm hoping to release these next week, so keep an eye out on my blog for the announcement!

Back cables

 

Front cables: mirrored zig-zags

Styles Court socks

I just have to say this: I love, love, love my new sock pattern Styles Court. These are a wonderful example of finding just the right pattern to show off the yarn and vice versa.

The pattern is quite simple, which is why I've posted it as a free download. It's a 4 row repeat, with the front and the back of the socks repeating themselves. So easy to memorize! Which makes it perfect for tucking into your purse while traveling or waiting for appointments.

The yarn is the delightful Sheepy Time Knits Sheepy Feet, in Midnight Blue - a yarn club colorway which won't be available for public release until November 2013. You can bet when it becomes generally available I'll be stocking up again! The subtle tones of the yarn bring the herringbone pattern to life, adding some visual depth to an already elegant pattern.

This is one pattern you absolutely want to knit in a solid or semi-solid color. The subtle texture would just get lost in the rapid color changes of a variegated yarn.

The pattern is suited to an advanced beginner. You should know about basic sock construction and be comfortable knitting in the round. Check out my blog post on Sock Basics for a refresher if you need to. I keep the instructions in my patterns "needle neutral", meaning that I don't write specifically for DPNs, magic loop or 2 circular needles. I prefer reference the front & back, heel, top, instep and sole of the sock. You can use whichever method you prefer and adjust how your stitches are distributed on your needles based on that method.

Palette Cleanser

On the weekend I spent a few pleasant hours at the annual alpaca shearing at the 1 Stop Alpaca Farm. My daughter and her friend spent hours exploring the farm, playing with the border collies (who loved playing fetch, but also loved to drop the ball into the pond), and springing around the bouncy castle. I spent the time knitting and chatting with some acquaintances from our Monday night spinning group.

While at the  event, I started a sock with some Lang Jawoll Aktion sock yarn that I'd purchased on sale at Mary's Yarns in Unionville. The lovely blues of this self-striping yarn kept catching my eye every time I passed by my yarn shelf. So I cast on and decided to knit a simple 2x2 ribbed sock, something I could knit from memory.

The sock quickly became addictive, as I kept wanting to finish a color and see the next one begin. It was a delightful change from my usual semi-solid sock yarns and more complex patterns. And I continued knitting while watching Zero Dark Thirty with my husband.


By mid-Sunday afternoon I had 1 sock done! What a fast knit. Of course, with the equivalent of a serving of sorbet between the salad and the main entree, I'm now well primed to finish up my second Herringbone Rib sock, a new (and free!) pattern that I'll be releasing soon.

Sock details:
Lang Jawoll Aktion sock yarn. 75% wool, 25% nylon
2.75mm needles for the cuff
2.5 mm needles for the sock
2x2 ribbing for 16 grams
ribbed heel flap for 2.5 inches
continued 2x2 ribbing on top of foot.
plain toe until 14 sts remained top & bottom.

A Study in Socks - Yarn Choice

There are so many ways to approach this topic. Do you choose the yarn first or the pattern? Does it make a difference? Does fiber content matter? Why does it matter? Colors: solid, variegated, tonal, self-striping, self-patterning?

I'll do a blog post on each of these questions, but I'll try to boil it down to some essentials here with regard to fiber characteristics. Just enough to get you thinking about your choices.

Which came first, the yarn or the pattern?
It depends. Have you found a sock yarn that you absolutely love and now you just need to figure out what it wants to be when it grows up? Or did you see a pattern on Ravelry (or elsewhere) and now you just have to knit it, but don't know what yarn to choose.

The only certain thing is that you should consider the characteristics of one when choosing the other. Not all sock yarn is created equal and not all patterns knit up the same.

What do I mean by this? Let's take a look at this sample of sock yarns that I chose from skeins I have at home and talk about two main characteristics: loft and twist.

There are a few characteristics I'd like to point out here. The first is fiber content. As you can see, I prefer my sock yarns to have a bit of nylon in them for durability. But just because they all have merino and nylon in them doesn't mean they will knit up the same.

Sample 1
Let's look at the odd kid out (get it: kid - mohair...from a goat...lousy pun). Fiber #1 has mohair in it as well as merino and nylon. This makes it fuzzier than other yarns without mohair. This is called the halo. Alpaca and mohair are fuzzier fibers, giving yarn a halo. As a result, items knit with these fibers will have less stitch definition; patterns will be 'softened' and won't appear as crisp as with other yarns. I don't recommend knitting an intricate design with a yarn that has lots of halo. Your hard work won't show up as nicely.

Sample 2
#2 is a nice plump yarn with more loft than the other yarns. Loft refers to the amount of air between the fibers. The yarn is bouncy and has a nice twist which you can easily see in the photo. Because of the loft and thickness, this yarn is not the best suited to lacy patterns unless you use very large needles. Yarn overs and other lace stitches would get lost in the plumpness of the yarn if you were knitting socks.

Sample 3
#3 has a nice tight twist as compared to the other yarns. In addition, it is a bit thinner too. This yarn shows great stitch definition and is well suited to cables, twisted stitches and more detailed patterns. If knitting socks, it will make a nice firm fabric. It would also show lace off nicely due to the tight twist. The yarn might feel a bit harder on your hands while knitting with it, but it softens upon washing.
I used this yarn to knit my Intertwined socks, which show off the cables nicely and have a firm fabric between the cabling.

Sample 4
This yarn has a nice even twist, with a touch more loft than Sample 3 beside it, but not as much as #2. I used this yarn in my Leafy Lace socks and I think it shows off the lace stitches nicely. And with the nice twist, that isn't as tight as #3 it will provide great stitch definition too. It is also a tad softer to the hand than #3, despite having the same fiber content. This is because it has more loft than #3.

Sample 5
This one falls between #4 and #2 on the loft and twist spectrum. As you can see, there's a bit of fuzz to it and the twist isn't as easy to see. It should still provide nice stitch definition though. A good, middle-of-the-road yarn.

Sample 6
A bit more loft than #5, with a nice twist. The fuzz on this yarn isn't necessarily due to fiber content like #1 with its mohair. Some yarns are just more prone to fuzzing with handling as you can see if you compare this yarn with numbers 3 and 4.

There are also sock yarns with a bit of silk or cashmere in them, making them nice and soft. The silk would add some sheen to the color as well. Silk is often called "Nature's nylon" and can add strength to a sock yarn. And I haven't talked about different wool blends: Blueface Leicester (BFL), generic wool, and so on. Different wools have different levels of softness to them. There really are so many factors that can influence how a yarn will behave when knit up; I won't try to cover them all in one post.

So what does this mean to your sock knitting? Try to think about what kind of yarn would be suited to your pattern to give you the results you want and vice versa. For lacy patterns, avoid yarns with a lot of halo (fuzziness) and consider how the loft (amount of air in between fibers) will fill in the holes when using smaller needles for socks.

If you have a pattern that is very detailed, pick a yarn with a tighter twist to show off the stitch definition to its best advantage.

So how to decide? That's where Ravelry comes in handy. Ravelry is great for seeing what others have knit, either with the yarn you have or the pattern you have picked out. Take a look at the projects completed with the yarn you have (or want to buy) and see how they turned out. Does the pattern look good? Is it visible and clear? Or, if you have a pattern you really want to make, then take a look at what yarns people have used? Which yarns do you think look the best?  Look past color at this point and just think about how well the pattern/stitches turned out.

Of course, the proof is in the pudding, as they say. When it doubt, swatch it and see if you like how it looks.

A Study in Sock - The basics

A Study in Socks - the  previous Introduction was here.

If you're not new to sock knitting, you can go grab a cup of your favorite beverage and go do some knitting - you probably know all this. Or hang around and keep me honest. Jump in if I've forgotten anything.

If you're new to sock knitting, grab a cup of your favorite beverage and read on. These are the basics about sock knitting.

We'll talk about 3 things:
1. The parts of a sock
2. The direction of knitting
3. Adjusting sock sizes

Parts of a Sock

Swirl Socks pattern.

First - let's decipher some of the jargon. It'll be hard to decipher patterns if you don't know the language they're written in.

Cuff - This part of the sock is usually done in some kind of ribbed pattern, which provides the stretch and cling to help keep your socks from falling down. Common ribbing used on the cuff is 2x2 ribbing or a 1x1 twisted rib (where the knit stitch is knit through the back of the loop). The cuff is usually 1-2" long, although it looks shorter when stretched on your leg.

Leg - Well, it's the part that covers your leg. This is where the pattern usually begins. I say usually, because sometimes you might want to just continue the ribbing all the way down the foot for a nice stretchy and simple sock. Yes, technically ribbing is a pattern too. The point is - this is where you can be creative.

Heel flap - This part is not knit in the round. It's knit back and forth, creating a small rectangle that covers the heel of your foot. Some knitters reinforce the heel flap with nylon reinforcing thread to help prevent the heel from wearing out, but it's not mandatory to do this.

Heel/Heel turn - "Turning the heel" creates the part that cradles the sides and bottom of your heel - transitioning from knitting the leg to knitting the foot of the sock. The heel turn is usually done with short rows.

Gusset - The gusset is a triangular piece knit on each side of the sock that connects the the leg of the sock to the heel of the sock. The gusset is created by picking up stitches along the heel flap and starts forming the shape of the foot of the sock.

Instep - Divided into the top of the foot and the sole of the foot. The pattern of the sock continues along the top of the instep and the sole is usually done in stocking stitch.

Toe - There's an infinite variety of ways to knit the toe of the foot. And opinions vary as to how wide the actual end of the toe should be - some prefer a narrow toe, others a wider one. The toe stitches are grafted (sewn) together using the Kitchener stitch.

Direction of Knitting

Socks can be knit either cuff down or toe up. You'll find knitters who strongly prefer one method over another as well as those who don't mind doing either. It's a matter of personal preference. For me, I prefer cuff down, simply because I have memorized a basic formula for doing the heel flap, heel and gusset stitches. I'm not as proficient (yet) with toe-up socks.

Top/Cuff Down - With this method, you start at the cuff and work your way down to the toe. The challenge with this method, is that you must 'guess' how much yarn will be required for each sock. What I usually do is weigh my sock yarn before I start knitting. Then I allocate 25% for each sock leg and 25% for each foot. Using this method, I've always had yarn left over when knitting for my size 8.5 (US, Ladies) foot.

Toe Up - With this method, you start at the toe and work your way up past the heel to the cuff of the sock. The heel turn and heel methods used for toe-up socks vary from the top-down method. The benefit of knitting toe up socks is that you can split your ball of sock yarn in half (by weight) and use up every last bit of yarn, no guessing required.

Sizes

There are a few ways to create different sizes of socks. If you're lucky, the pattern you're following will have instructions for different sizes, making it easy for you. But it's good to know a few ways to adjust the size yourself, if need be.

Different needle sizes - This is the easiest way to increase or decrease the width of your sock, by going up or down one or more needle sizes. Most frequently, this method is used on the sock cuff - going up a needle size to produce a wider cuff around the calf. Using this method, you don't have to change the pattern instructions. Just be sure that you're satisfied with the fabric you're creating with the different gauge. If you go up to too large a needle size, the fabric might be too 'loose' and airy for the pattern.

Changing the number of stitches - The most obvious way to change the width of your sock. However, if you're following a pattern that  doesn't easily allow for adding in extra stitches, you might not be able to use this method. (Blatent plug: The two sock patterns I've released both make it easy to add in extra stitches along the back of the sock to adjust the width if necessary. Swirl socks and Trellis and Coin socks, if you're interested.)

Adding repeats - This method mainly allows you to change the length of the sock (foot or leg) by adding or reducing the number of repeats in the pattern. Just make sure you have enough sock yarn to accommodate any extra repeats.

This covers the very introductory basics about hand-knit socks without requiring you to go get a second cup of coffee (or whatever you were drinking).  There's lots more to discuss about sock yarn choices, patterns, and so forth. But we'll keep this in easily digestible chunks, shall we?

Did I answer all the basics? Did I miss something? Have a comment? Feel free to let me know.